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11. Tendon Injury Prevention – Power Fingers

The concept of resistance training, specifically for this exercise, is to use the opposite motion as used when climbing. Here we use Power Fingers or rubber bands to create the opposite motion used when grabbing onto a hold. This opposition resistance training helps prevent tendon injury.

Instructions:

1. Start by sliding your fingers into the pre-cut holds of the power fingers resistance band.

2. Flex your wrist forward.

3. Open your hand all the way, hold for a second or two.

4. Release back to the original position.

5. Once you feel comfortable using one resistance band, you can add a second.

Tips to ensure proper technique:

  • To train the extensor side of your forearm, flex your hand upwards.
  • As shown in the video, be cautious of not positioning your flexed forearm and inner wrist facing upwards. That would overwork the inside of your forearm (just like climbing).
  • With proper form, this opposition exercise could be done often, if not everyday.

We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!

 

Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.

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