19. Offset Placements – Offset Nuts
On aid climbs and big walls, offset nuts are an indispensable tool that turn otherwise unprotectable seams or incipient cracks into a reasonable climb. In this video, we look at the benefits of offset nuts, and the pros and cons of softer metals used in some sets.
Offset nuts, unlike standard nuts or stoppers, are unique in that every facet is angled. This allows it to fit in pods, cracks, and seams that are not parallel or are shallower. They often will nest nicely into the bottom of flared cracks, small seams, and piton scars.
Both offset cams, as well as stoppers, are offered in softer metal options: brass heads for stoppers, and soft aluminum lobes for cams. We tend to prefer these softer and more malleable metals, particularly in the smaller cam and stopper sizes. They often inspire just a little more confidence!
Larger stopper sizes are often made of aluminum (with a hollow center, which is less ideal for softer metal). The smallest sizes are often made of brass.
Due to the softer metals, certain cams and stoppers will often show their age a bit more. Nonetheless you will still get plenty of use out of them!
We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!
Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.