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7. Top Rope Anchor – Using a Cordelette

In this video we review how to create an outdoor top-rope anchor using a cordelette. To create this type of top rope anchor you’ll need:

1 – Cordelette, 6 to 8 millimeters in length
2 – Non-locking carabiners
AND
1 – Locking carabiner -and- 1 non-locking carabiner
OR
2 – non locking carabiners
OR
2 – locking carabiners for the Master Point

Step 1 – Clip a non-locking carabiner into each bolt (one carabiner for each bolt).

Step 2 – Clip cordelette into each non-locking carabiner.

Step 3 – Pull the strands down to isolate the two legs of the anchor (if you see a triangle of cordelette, you are not properly equalized). If the cordelette is too long, you can double it up to keep the Master Point higher. If you decide to double it up, make sure all strands get tied off in your Master Point, and that your system is both equalized and redundant when you tie the knot.

Step 4 – Pull the cordelette in the direction of the climber until it is equalized (See video Top Rope Anchor Safety Considerations – SRENE for more on anchors). Pinch the two sides of the rope together and tie a figure-eight-on-a-bight to create the Master Point.

Step 5 – Clip a locking and non-locking carabiner, opposite and opposed, into the Master Point. You can also use two non-locking or two locking carabiners.

We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!

 

Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.

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