17. The DeadPoint
“Deadpointing” is a term used to describe an advanced movement technique.
Imagine you are fairly extended, and about to do a hard move. Gravity is pulling at you, and trying to rip you off the wall. If you let go, you will probably fall. Instead of accepting this fate, the climber must complete an advanced move called the “deadpoint”.
Imagine tossing an apple up in the air, and then catching it. That brief moment at the top of the arc, before the apple falls back down, is considered the deadpoint. This is the movement one tries to incorporate when deadpointing.
Often from an insecure position, the climber creates movement with their hips inwards, towards the wall. This creates a short period of time in which the body is still or moving into to the wall, instead of falling away from the wall. In this brief moment, the climber reaches up and confidently takes the next hold. Knowing this is a one-time move (or must-do situation), the climber makes sures to not let go of the newly found hand-hold.
To deadpoint correctly, try to start the movement with the hips, and not the arms. Also try to spring the legs for upwards momentum. Typically, your feet will remain on the original footholds, as your hand extends up towards the target. Deadpointing is a very controlled climbing move. Save the more dynamic moves, with your feet kicking free of the wall, for more advanced “dynos”. Deadpoint climbing moves can also be used with the movement known as “pogo-ing” or “moon kicking”.
We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!
Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.