5. Hangboard – Repeaters

Hangboarding is one of the best ways to build climbing hand strength and muscular endurance. There are many ways to use hangboards for climbing fitness. Here we review the hangboard exercise known as Repeaters.

Start by grabbing the easiest holds on the hangboard with both hands and dead hang for 7 seconds, then rest for 3 seconds. Do 7 sets over the course of 1 min 10 seconds. Once you’ve build up endurance and do not feel pumped after the 7 seconds, you can either increase the hang time or add weight by wearing a something like a weight vest or belt.

Progress your way through open hand jug holds, to pinchers and slippers. Once you feel comfortable with those, then you can move onto pockets. When starting with pockets, use either the back three fingers, or the front three fingers, and once you feel strong with three, then you can move onto two.

Avoid the common mistake of going for the hardest holds out the gate, this is an easy way to hurt yourself. It’s important to start with the easiest holds, and grab them in a symmetrical fashion. From there, progress to the more difficult holds. This might take months, or perhaps years of practice.

We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!


Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.