7. Climbing Overhangs

Below are a few tips to consider when climbing overhangs:

1. Identify the sequences – Climbs are broken out into parts, each with their own unique sequences. Try to identify the crux sections before you start climbing. This helps you to be prepared for each one.

2. Find rest spots – This allows you to slow down, recharge, catch your breath, perhaps shake out an arm, and assess the next move.

3. Know when to charge – As you approach the overhang move, you’ve hopefully paced yourself and assessed the sequence, so you’re able to charge (i.e. give it your all) without having to hang and figure it out. Depending on the grade of the climb, there will probably be another rest after the overhang move. Power through the overhang crux with steady effort, then rest again later!

4. Proper technique – Oftentimes, a more advanced climber uses the winning combination of drop-knee, backstep, and swivel hip / side hip to circumvent an overhanging bulge move. The trifecta of a drop-knee, backstep, and swivel hip / side hip allows better climbers to cheat gravity by finding a sweet spot between the wall and open air. Compare this style to a beginner climber, who often tries climbing the route straightforward, hips facing the wall, like a ladder. As soon as the move is too steep, the beginner climber’s hips fall away from the wall because the severity of the overhang feels too awkward.

We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!


Pleaser remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.