8. Fixed Draws

In this video we review considerations for using fixed draws when sport climbing.

For elite, difficult, and high-level sport climbing, climbers may choose to fix draws on their projects.

If you walk up to a sport climbing area and see quickdraws hanging on a route, they are probably there for a good reason. Another climber may be trying to project the route and figure out the moves.

When in doubt, leave the draws hanging. They are not yours and taking them would be stealing, and the climbing gods will forever bestow bad juju upon you!

Fixed draws also give climbers the opportunity to try the route themselves. If you fall and can not complete the route, simply lower, untie, and pull your rope—no harm done, and no gear lost.  

If the first draw or bolt has red tape or marking please refrain from climbing. This is called red tagged and it means someone is trying for the first clean ascent.

There have been a few accidents and even deaths due to fixed draws becoming worn on climbs. It is your responsibility to check the gear and make sure it is safe before blindly trusting gear that you did not place.

We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!


Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.