19. Maximizing Space at the Anchor

In this video we review ways to maximize space at the anchor when all members of your climbing party have reached the top of the route. Below are a few considerations:

1. Clip into the shelf – The shelf is located just above the master point, and can be used in addition to the master point to clip either yourself or any of the other climbers. This requires clipping into all three (or more) legs of the anchor system between the cam or stopper and the master point.

Note: Never leave the master point vacant when using the shelf, even if it means leaving one carabiner in the master point.

2. Use anchor pieces to organize gear – If you need a break from wearing your backpack or gear sling, you can hang it from one of the cams or stoppers in your anchor. Be sure that whatever you clip into does not shift from its strong, solid placement.

We hope you found this video helpful. Feel free to comment below with questions or thoughts!


Please remember, climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.